Slab volume, rebar grid, gravel base and control joints for a patio pour.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
| Concrete & Footings | $478–$647 |
| Soil & Fill | $81–$109 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $60–$81 |
| Lumber & Decking | $41–$55 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $25–$34 |
| Total | $684–$926 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
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About this calculator
Enter your patio's size and thickness and the Concrete Patio Builder works out the whole pour: concrete volume in 80 lb bags or cubic yards of ready-mix, the compacted gravel base, wire mesh or a #4 rebar grid, edge forms and stakes, expansion-joint material, a control-joint layout and curing supplies — plus the full tool kit, a cost range and a realistic time.
It automatically switches from bags to ready-mix once the pour gets big, and lays out control joints from your slab thickness. Open advanced options for base depth, mix source, a vapor barrier and overage. Concrete finishing has a short window — plan your crew before the truck arrives.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Stake the patio, square it by measuring the diagonals, and dig out for your slab thickness plus the gravel base. Call 811 before digging and plan a slight slope away from the house.
Set 2× form lumber around the perimeter, staked every couple of feet, with the tops at your finished height and a 1/4"-per-foot slope for drainage. The form tops are your screed guide, so get them straight and solid.
Add the gravel base in layers, compacting each with a plate compactor and dampening it. Lay the vapor barrier (if used), then set wire mesh or the rebar grid on chairs so it sits in the middle of the slab.
Place the concrete starting at the far end, filling the forms slightly proud. Screed it flush by sawing a straight 2×4 across the form tops, filling low spots as you go.
Once the sheen leaves the surface, bull-float to level it, run the edger around the perimeter, and tool the control joints at your spacing. Let the bleed water disappear before more finishing.
Hand-float, then trowel for a smooth finish or drag a broom across for non-slip texture. Don't overwork it or work in standing bleed water.
Cover the slab with a curing blanket or poly and keep it damp for several days — most strength is gained while it cures wet. After it cures, a concrete sealer adds stain and freeze-thaw protection.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
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Keep planning
Concrete & Masonry
Answers
Multiply length × width × thickness (in feet) for cubic feet, then divide by 27 for cubic yards. A 16×12 patio at 4 inches is about 2.4 cubic yards. The planner does this and adds an overage, because you can't go back for 'a little more' once a pour starts — running short means a cold joint. It also converts to 80 lb bags for small jobs.
Up to roughly a cubic yard, mixing 80 lb bags is reasonable. Beyond about two yards, the bag count and mixing time get punishing, and ready-mix delivery is faster, stronger from the consistent mix, and often cheaper. The planner auto-switches at that point, or you can force either option to compare costs.
Reinforcement doesn't stop cracks — control joints do that — but it holds cracks tight and keeps the slab from shifting. Welded wire mesh is plenty for a typical 4-inch patio; a #4 rebar grid is better for thicker slabs, poor soils, or anything bearing heavy loads. Whatever you use, keep it suspended in the middle of the slab on chairs.
A common rule is joint spacing in feet no more than about 2 to 3 times the slab thickness in inches — so roughly 8–10 feet for a 4-inch slab — and keep panels close to square. Cut or tool the joints within the first 24 hours (sooner in heat) about a quarter of the slab depth, so the inevitable shrinkage cracks form neatly in the joints.