PROJECT SUMMARY
Fence project summary
Run100 lin ft · 13 sections
- Material
- Wood · privacy
- Height
- 6 ft
- Posts
- 15 (8 ft spacing)
- Gates
- 1
- Setting
- Concrete footings
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Build time
- 3–5 days
- Estimated materials
- $2,443–$3,305
Fence Cost & Materials Calculator
Lay out posts, panels, concrete and gates for any fence run — instantly.
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Fence calculator
Height
Material
Advanced optionsfine-tune the details…
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
Cost breakdown
Material only · national-average rates
| Posts & Panels | $1,790–$2,421 |
| Concrete & Footings | $417–$564 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $102–$138 |
| Gates & Latches | $60–$81 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $51–$69 |
| Connectors & Brackets | $24–$33 |
| Total | $2,443–$3,305 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
Shopping list
Every item · grouped by store sectionThese are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
Posts & Panels
- 15× 10 ftPosts — 4×4 PT — 14 line + 1 gate
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- 26× 8 ftRails — 2×4 PT — 2 per section
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- 241× boardsPickets — 1×6 (6 ft) — privacy layout + 10% waste
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Concrete & Footings
- 70× bagsConcrete — 80 lb bags — 15 posts · 12" dia × 42" deep
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Connectors & Brackets
- 26× eaRail brackets (if butt-joined)
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Fasteners & Hardware
- 4× boxExterior screws / nails — ≈ 1120 fasteners
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Gates & Latches
- 1× eaGate kit (Wood) — hinges + latch incl.
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Finishing & Sealant
- 15× eaPost caps
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Tools
✓ required · ○ helpful
- Post-hole digger or power auger — 15 holes
- String line & line level — straight runs
- 4 ft level (post level)
- Tape measure
- Tamper
- Wheelbarrow / mixing tub
- Circular saw
- Cordless drill / impact driver
- Nail gun — speeds picketing
Project notes
- Quantities assume a straight run; add posts for each corner and direction change beyond the gate posts already included.
- Footings reach 42" — below a 36" frost line. Let concrete cure before hanging panels or stretching fabric (a day is plenty for most mixes).
- Call 811 (or your local utility locate service) before digging. It's free and required almost everywhere.
- Confirm the line, setbacks and height limits with your municipality and, where relevant, your neighbors — fence disputes are the costliest mistake here.
About this calculator
How to estimate a fence
Enter the run length, height, material and number of gates, and the whole job gets laid out: post count and spacing, rails or panels, picket coverage, concrete, gate kits and fittings — plus tools, a cost range and a realistic build time.
Pick wood, vinyl, aluminum or chain-link and the materials list reshapes itself. Open advanced options for post spacing, slope handling, frost depth, rail count and waste.
Step by step
How to build a fence
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
- 1
Confirm the line and call 811
Verify the property line (a survey if there's any doubt), check local height limits and setbacks, and call 811 to mark utilities. Fence disputes and cut lines are the costliest mistakes here.
- 2
Lay out the runs and gates
Run a string line for each straight run and mark every post location at your spacing, plus a dedicated post on each side of every gate opening. Mark the corners and ends first, then divide evenly between them.
- 3
Dig the post holes
Dig each hole below the frost line (or to about a third of the post height), wider at the base. Gate and end posts carry the most load — go deeper and set those in concrete.
- 4
Set and plumb the posts
Set the end and corner posts first, plumb them on two faces, and brace them. Pull a string between them and set the line posts to it. Set in concrete or tamp with gravel as you chose; let concrete cure before adding weight.
- 5
Hang rails or panels
For wood, fasten the rails between posts; for vinyl, aluminum or chain-link, install the panels, top rail or fabric. On a slope, step or rack each section to follow the grade.
- 6
Install pickets or fabric
Fasten pickets to the rails with a spacer for consistent gaps and a string line for a level top, or stretch and tie chain-link fabric tight with a fence stretcher.
- 7
Hang the gates
Hang each gate with heavy-duty hinges, check that it swings freely and latches, and add an anti-sag cable or brace — sagging gates are the number one fence failure.
- 8
Cap and finish
Add post caps, then seal or stain wood for weather protection. Walk the line and tighten any loose fasteners before calling it done.
Equip the job
Recommended gear for this build
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
Concrete & FootingsFast-setting concrete mixPour-and-set mix that skips mixing for fence posts — just add water in the hole.
$6–9/bag
Gates & LatchesHeavy-duty gate hinge & latch setSagging gates are the #1 fence failure — oversize the hardware.
$25–60
ToolsPost level (band-style)Straps to the post and shows plumb on two axes hands-free.
$8–15
ToolsFence stretcher / come-alongEssential for tensioning chain-link fabric tight and even.
$20–40
Fasteners & HardwareHot-dip galvanized ring-shank fence nailsRing shanks hold pickets through wet-dry swelling; electroplated fasteners streak cedar black in one season.
$30–45 / 5 lb
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Answers
Frequently asked questions
How deep should fence posts go?
A common rule is one-third of the post's above-ground height, and always below the frost line if you set them in concrete. The planner uses whichever is deeper, with a minimum of 24 inches. Gate and end posts carry more load — go deeper and use concrete there even if you tamp the rest.
Do I need concrete for every post?
No. Gravel-tamped posts hold fine on most straight runs and often outlast concreted ones, because a concrete collar traps water against the wood and rots the post right at the collar. Concrete earns its place where there are point loads: gate posts, corners, ends, and anything 6 feet or taller standing in open wind. Those will lean within a couple of seasons if they are only tamped. A good split is concrete at every terminal and gate post, tamped gravel with a stone base on the line posts between them. Where you do pour, crown the top so water runs away from the post.
How do I handle a slope?
Two methods, and the grade picks for you. Stepping keeps every section level and drops each one a fixed amount at the post — right for formal fences and mandatory for rigid pre-assembled panels — but it leaves a triangular gap under each section that you fill with a grade board or backfill. Racking parallelograms the section so pickets stay plumb while the rails follow the ground, leaving no gap; use it on steady continuous grade and anywhere a dog could get under. Site-built wood racks freely. Vinyl and aluminum panels rack only within a rated range, often 6 to 12 inches over an 8-foot section.
What about property lines and permits?
Call 811 before digging to mark utilities — it's free and legally required in most areas. Many cities cap fence height and require setbacks from the property line or sidewalk, and some require a permit. Confirm the line with a survey if there's any doubt; a misplaced fence is expensive to move.