Floor, walls, roof and sheathing takeoff for a backyard shed.
Estimates are planning aids, not an engineered design. Confirm spans, footings and setbacks against your local code and permit before buying.
⚠ On-grade skid sheds can heave or settle. Set the gravel pad level and well-drained, and check that a skid (movable) shed is allowed in your zoning — some areas still require a permit or setback.
| Lumber & Decking | $830–$1,123 |
| Siding & Trim | $610–$826 |
| Roofing | $371–$503 |
| Doors & Windows | $281–$380 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $116–$156 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $97–$131 |
| Soil & Fill | $54–$72 |
| Connectors & Brackets | $37–$51 |
| Total | $2,396–$3,241 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Skids — 4×6 PTrunners on a gravel pad | 3 × 12 ft |
| Gravel pad4" leveled and tamped | 1.5 × cu yd |
| Floor joists — 2×6 PT16" on-center | 10 × 10 ft |
| Rim joists — 2×6 PT | 2 × 12 ft |
| Floor sheathing — 3/4" T&G plywood | 5 × 4×8 sheet |
| Wall studs — 2×4 (8 ft)16" OC + corners & openings | 57 × 8 ft |
| Plates — 2×4 (bottom + double top)3 plate runs | 17 × 8 ft |
| Header stock — 2×8 (doors/windows) | 3 × 8 ft |
| Siding — T1-11 plywoodstructural siding (no separate sheathing) | 13 × 4×8 sheet |
| Corner & opening trim — 1×4 | 6 × 8 ft |
| Rafters — 2×6 (5.3 ft)4:12 gable | 20 × 12 ft |
| Ridge board — 2×8 | 1 × 12 ft |
| Roof sheathing — 7/16 OSB | 5 × 4×8 sheet |
| Roofing underlayment | 2 × roll |
| Asphalt shingles≈ 1.4 squares | 5 × bundles |
| Drip edge | 5 × 10 ft |
| Ridge cap shingles12 lin ft ridge | 1 × bundle |
| Pre-hung shed door4 ft wide opening | 1 × ea |
| Shed windows | 1 × ea |
| Primer + exterior paintT1-11/LP needs sealing at the cut edges | 3 × gal |
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Joist hangers — 2×6 | 20 × ea |
| Framing nails (or screws)framing throughout | 2 × boxes |
| Hurricane ties (rafter-to-plate) | 20 × ea |
| Exterior screws (siding/roof) | 9 × lb |
| Roofing nails | 1 × 5 lb box |
About this planner
Tell the Shed Builder the footprint, wall height, siding and roof style and it produces a complete framing takeoff: the floor or slab, every stud and plate, rafters and ridge, wall and roof sheathing, shingles and drip edge, the door and windows, and all the fasteners and connectors — plus tools, a cost range and a build time.
Switch between a skid-on-gravel floor and a concrete slab, gable or lean-to roof, and 16" or 24" stud spacing, and the materials list rebuilds itself. Open advanced options for roof pitch, door width, windows and waste.
Step by step
A high-level walkthrough of the build. Pair it with your plan above and always confirm spans, footings and setbacks against your local code.
For skids, level and tamp a 4" gravel pad slightly larger than the shed and set the pressure-treated runners dead level. For a slab, form, add gravel and rebar, pour and float it, then set anchor bolts before it cures.
If you're on skids, build the joist frame, check it for square by measuring the diagonals, and screw down the T&G plywood. A square, solid floor is the deck everything else is built on.
Frame each wall on the floor with its plates, studs, and door/window openings, then stand it up, brace it plumb, and nail the corners together. Add the second top plate to tie the walls into one ring.
Cut one rafter as a pattern (birdsmouth and plumb cuts), test-fit it, then cut the rest. Set the ridge for a gable or a high wall for a lean-to, hang the rafters at your spacing, and tie each one down with a hurricane tie.
Screw OSB to the rafters, run drip edge on the eaves, roll out underlayment, then drip edge on the rakes. Get the roof watertight the same day you open it up.
Start with a starter course at the eave and work up, overlapping each course and nailing in the manufacturer's strip. Cap the ridge last with ridge-cap shingles.
Wrap the walls (for vinyl) or hang structural siding directly, add corner and opening trim, then set the windows and hang the door. Shim the door until it swings and latches cleanly.
Caulk the joints, prime and paint the cut edges and faces of wood siding, and add a ramp or threshold at the door. Walk the shed and touch up anywhere water could get behind the cladding.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
Keep planning
Answers
It depends on size and where you live. Many areas exempt sheds under a threshold — often 100–200 sq ft — but still enforce setbacks from property lines. Larger sheds, anything on a permanent foundation, or anything with electricity usually needs a permit. Check with your local building department and HOA before you start.
A skid foundation — pressure-treated runners on a level, drained gravel pad — is cheaper, faster, and can keep the shed classified as movable (sometimes permit-exempt). A slab is permanent, rodent-proof and rock-solid but costs more and commits you to the spot. The planner adjusts the whole materials list to your choice.
A 3:12 to 4:12 gable sheds water and snow well and keeps the ridge low; steeper 6:12 gives more headroom and a more house-like look but uses more material. A lean-to (single slope) is the simplest to frame and ideal against a fence or wall. Pick the style and pitch and the rafter and shingle quantities update.
Quantities follow standard framing rules — studs and rafters at your chosen spacing, sheathing by the sheet, shingles by the square — with an adjustable waste allowance. It's an excellent shopping baseline; do a final cut-list against your exact door and window sizes before buying, since openings change the framing slightly.