Plan a code-aware deck — framing, footings, fasteners and cost — in seconds.
Estimates are planning aids, not an engineered design. Confirm spans, footings and setbacks against your local code and permit before buying.
| Lumber & Decking | $1,272–$1,722 |
| Connectors & Brackets | $418–$566 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $222–$301 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $136–$184 |
| Concrete & Footings | $89–$121 |
| Total | $2,138–$2,892 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Deck boards — 5/4"×6" Pressure-treated pine26 rows + 10% waste | 29 × 16 ft |
| Joists — 2×10 pressure-treatedcut to 12 ft · 16" on-center | 13 × 16 ft |
| Blocking — 2×10 offcutsone row mid-span at 16" bays | 12 × pieces |
| Rim / band 2×10 pressure-treatedincludes ledger board | 2 × 16 ft |
| Beam plies — 2×10 pressure-treated1 × 2-ply built-up beam | 2 × 16 ft |
| Posts — 4×4 pressure-treated3 per beam · ~4 ft each | 3 × 8 ft |
| Concrete — 80 lb bags3 footings · 12" dia × 42" deep | 15 × bags |
| Ledger flashing (Z / cap) | 16 × lin ft |
| Butyl joist / beam tapecaps framing tops against rot | 1 × 75 ft roll |
| Stair stringers — 2×12 PT3 risers @ 8.0" | 3 × 8 ft |
| Stair tread boardscut to 36" · 2 boards/tread | 4 × pieces |
| Railing posts (4×4 or post kit)≤ 6 ft spacing + corners | 11 × ea |
| Top & bottom rails | 11 × 8 ft |
| Penetrating deck stain / sealertwo coats incl. cut boards | 3 × gal |
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Joist hangers — 2×10ledger side | 13 × ea |
| Hurricane / seismic tiesjoist-to-beam | 13 × ea |
| Post bases (standoff) | 3 × ea |
| Post-to-beam caps | 3 × ea |
| Structural connector screws≈ 256 screws | 3 × 100 ct box |
| Deck screws (coated)≈ 676 screws · 2 per joist | 2 × 5 lb box |
| Ledger structural screws / through-boltsstaggered ~16" along ledger | 14 × ea |
| Stair-stringer connectors | 3 × ea |
| Balusters / spindles4" max gap | 111 × ea |
| Post caps | 11 × ea |
About this planner
Tell us the size and material and the Deck Builder generates a complete build package: decking and framing quantities, beam and footing layout, every connector and fastener, a grouped shopping list, the tools you'll need, a cost range and a realistic build time.
Start with five inputs and a full plan appears immediately. Open advanced options to dial in joist spacing, board width, picture-frame borders, railings, frost depth and waste — the package updates as you type.
Step by step
A high-level walkthrough of the build. Pair it with your plan above and always confirm spans, footings and setbacks against your local code.
Confirm your sizing against local span tables, pull a permit if required, and call 811 to mark utilities before you dig. Lay out the footprint with batter boards and string, then square it by equalizing the diagonals.
Dig each footing below the frost line, set the post bases, and pour the concrete. Get the post-base layout square and level — the whole frame references off these.
For an attached deck, flash and bolt the ledger to solid house framing. For a freestanding deck, stand the posts, then set the beams on top. Establish your level reference line here.
Hang the joists off the ledger and beam at your on-center spacing, crown up, and add mid-span blocking. Check the frame for square and level before decking.
Cap the joist tops with butyl tape, then fasten the decking with consistent gaps, working from a straight reference line. Add a picture-frame border last if you chose one.
Lay out the stringers with a framing square and stair gauges, cut and test-fit one, then cut the rest. Hang them with stringer connectors and add the treads.
Mount the rail posts, run the top and bottom rails, and fill with balusters at no more than a 4-inch gap. Cap the posts.
For wood decking, apply two coats of penetrating stain or sealer including the cut ends. Call for your final inspection where one is required before you load up the deck.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
Keep planning
Answers
It sums every line item using national-average prices, then shows a ±15% range. Treat it as a budgeting starting point — local lumber prices, decking brand and grade move the number significantly. The quantities are the durable part; swap in your store's prices for a precise total.
No. The Deck Builder sizes framing from common residential span rules of thumb so you can plan and shop. Most jurisdictions require a permit and may require a stamped drawing, especially for attached or elevated decks. Always confirm joist, beam and footing sizing against your local code.
The planner assumes decking runs parallel to the length and joists span the width, spaced along the length at your chosen on-center distance. If you rotate the boards, swap the length and width inputs.
Attached decks hang from a ledger bolted to the house on one side and a beam on the other, so they need ledger flashing and structural ledger fasteners. Freestanding decks float on two beams and more footings, which adds posts, concrete and lateral bracing but avoids touching the house.
From deck area, footing count, and whether you've added stairs, railing or a picture-frame border, assuming a two-person crew working productive days. Digging footings and hardwood pre-drilling add the most time.