Base coat kits, topcoat, flake and prep for a two-part epoxy or polyaspartic garage floor.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
⚠ At 576 sq ft, this is more floor than one mixed batch of a fast-set coating can cover before it starts to kick — 100% solids epoxy and polyaspartic both have a working pot life measured in minutes once mixed. Plan to cut the floor into sections and have a second person rolling while you mix and pour the next batch.
⚠ Coatings like these need a slab temperature of roughly 55–90°F and humidity under 85% to cure properly, and a fresh concrete slab should cure at least 28 days before any coating goes down. Cold, damp or too-new concrete is the most common reason a DIY epoxy job peels within the first year.
| Finishing & Sealant | $763–$1,033 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $23–$31 |
| Concrete & Footings | $12–$16 |
| Total | $798–$1,080 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
About this calculator
The Epoxy Garage Floor Builder turns a floor's length and width into a kit count instead of a raw gallon figure, because these coatings are genuinely sold and priced by the kit, not the gallon. Pick a two-part epoxy or a faster-curing polyaspartic system, set a flake broadcast level, and it works out base coat kits, topcoat gallons, decorative flake and prep chemicals, all scaled to a target mil thickness.
It also branches on what's already on the slab: bare, never-coated concrete only needs an acid etch, while a floor with old paint or a failed coating needs that film mechanically ground off first, which the calculator flags with a warning and swaps the prep line accordingly. Every number here is a planning estimate — confirm coverage against the specific kit you buy before ordering.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Measure the floor and use the calculator to choose between epoxy and polyaspartic and set a flake level — this decides how many kits, how much topcoat, and how long the garage will be out of service.
Empty the garage completely, sweep, and scrub any oil or grease stains with a degreaser — coating applied over an oil stain will never fully bond and will lift in that spot first.
Acid-etch bare, never-coated concrete to open its surface, or mechanically grind off any existing paint or coating so the new system has fresh concrete to bond to.
Rout out and fill any cracks with a flexible polyurethane crack filler and let it fully cure per the label before coating — coating over a fresh, uncured filler traps solvent underneath it.
Mix only what you can apply within the pot life, squeegee it out to an even film, then back-roll it — work in sections on a large floor rather than trying to cover it all from one batch.
Toss flake into the base coat while it's still tacky, working from the back of the garage toward the door in spiked shoes so you never have to walk back across wet coating.
Once the base coat is cured, scrape off any flake that didn't lie flat, vacuum the floor, and roll on the clear topcoat in the number of coats the calculator specified.
Stay off it on the timeline for your system — walk-on time comes well before the floor is hard enough for a parked car, and rolling tires onto it early is the most common way a new coating gets damaged.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. We may also earn from other retailer links here. This doesn’t change your price and helps keep these planners free.
Keep planning
Concrete & Masonry
Answers
For a typical 2-car garage (around 500–600 sq ft), materials for a DIY 100% solids epoxy system with a light flake broadcast usually run somewhere in the $800–1,500 range once you add base coat kits, topcoat, flake and prep chemicals — well under the $1,500–3,000+ a professional crew charges for the same square footage, since labor is most of that gap. Polyaspartic systems cost more per kit but need less cure downtime, which can offset the price difference if you can't leave the garage unusable for several days.
Epoxy is the cheaper, more forgiving option for a first-time DIYer: slower cure gives you more working time per batch, but it also means several days between coats and before you can park on it, and it's more sensitive to cold or humid conditions. Polyaspartic costs more per kit and sets fast enough that mixing mistakes are less forgiving, but it can go from bare slab to a parked car in a single day and tolerates a wider temperature range, which matters if you're working in an unheated garage in spring or fall.
Yes, if there's an existing paint, sealer or failed epoxy coating on the slab. An acid etch is only strong enough to profile bare concrete — it won't reliably bite into an existing film, and coating over a film that's already starting to let go from the slab just traps the peeling problem under a new layer that will lift with it. Mechanical removal, usually a rented diamond grinder or a shot-blasting service, strips the old coating and leaves fresh concrete with the right surface profile for the new system to bond to.
A light accent broadcast, where the base coat color is still visible between chips, runs about half a pound of flake per 100 sq ft. A full broadcast to refusal — where chips are thrown until no more will stick and the base coat is completely hidden — takes roughly three times that, around 1.5 lb per 100 sq ft. Buy a little extra regardless: broadcasting by hand always leaves some flake on the floor unused rather than airborne and stuck to the wet coat.
Plan on being able to walk on it in about 24 hours, but hold off parking a vehicle for a full 3 to 5 days with a standard epoxy system — the coating is dry to the touch well before it has actually cured to its full hardness, and rolling a hot tire onto it too early can leave a permanent mark or tear. Polyaspartic systems cure much faster and can typically take foot traffic in 4–6 hours and a vehicle within 24 hours, which is the main reason people pay more for that system on a single-car garage they can't leave empty for a week.
Most epoxy and polyaspartic products want the slab and air somewhere in the 55–90°F range with humidity under about 85% during application and while curing. Coating a cold slab is one of the most common reasons a DIY job fails early — the chemical reaction that hardens the coating slows down dramatically in cold concrete even if the air feels fine, leaving a soft, easily damaged film. If you're working in an unheated garage, check the forecast for the full cure window, not just application day.