Gravel Driveway project summary
- Total stone
- ≈ 17.8 tons
- Depth
- 8" (4+2+2)
- Fabric
- Geotextile included
- Edging
- None
- Use
- Car
- Difficulty
- Intermediate
- Build time
- 2.5–5.5 days
- Estimated materials
- $607–$873
Tons of stone, base layers, fabric and cost for a gravel driveway.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
⚠ Call 811 before excavating, and plan a slight crown or cross-slope so water sheds off the driveway. A new driveway entrance onto a public road often needs a permit and a culvert — check with your local road authority.
| Soil & Fill | $459–$661 |
| Membrane & Fabric | $148–$212 |
| Total | $607–$873 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
About this calculator
Enter your driveway's length, width and total depth and the Gravel Driveway Builder works out exactly how much crushed stone to order — in tons — split across a compacted base, an optional middle course and an angular top course, plus the geotextile fabric and edging, with a cost range and a build time. Stone is sold by the ton, so the takeoff is ready to hand straight to your supplier.
Tell it whether the drive is for a car, two cars, or RVs and trucks, and it adjusts the depth guidance. Open advanced options to set the total depth, add separation fabric and edging, and tune the overage.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Stake the driveway and mark the width, then have utilities located before you dig. If you're tying into a public road, check whether you need an entrance permit and a culvert for the ditch.
Strip the topsoil and any soft material down to firm subgrade — usually the full stone depth, 8 inches or more. Shape a slight crown or cross-slope now so the finished drive sheds water.
Lay woven geotextile fabric across the subgrade, overlapping the seams, and run it up the sides a little. This separation layer is what stops the stone from sinking into the soil.
Spread the coarse base stone in lifts no more than a few inches at a time, raking it level, and compact each lift with a plate compactor or roller before adding the next.
On deeper drives, add a clean middle course for drainage and compact it. Keep checking your crown so water will run to the edges.
Spread the angular top course — crusher run or #411 — and compact it well. The fines and sharp edges lock together into a firm, car-friendly surface.
Add edging along the sides if you want to keep the stone contained, do a final compaction pass, and dress any low spots. Plan to top up the surface course every couple of years.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
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Keep planning
Concrete & Masonry
Answers
Multiply length × width × depth (in feet) to get cubic feet, divide by 27 for cubic yards, then multiply by about 1.4 to get tons, since crushed stone runs roughly 1.4 tons per cubic yard. A 40×12 driveway at 8 inches deep is about 12 cubic yards, or roughly 16–17 tons. This calculator does the math and splits it across the base, middle and top courses for you.
Plan on about 8 inches of compacted stone for normal car traffic, built up in layers over geotextile fabric. Go deeper — 10 to 12 inches — for soft or clay soils, wet climates, or if RVs, trailers or delivery trucks will use it. Depth and compaction, not just the top layer, are what keep a gravel drive firm and rut-free.
Use a layered approach: a coarse base stone (like #2 or '3-inch crusher run') for strength, an optional clean middle course for drainage, and an angular crusher-run top (like #411) that locks together into a firm driving surface. Avoid smooth, round 'pea gravel' for the top — it never compacts and just scatters under tires.
On almost any soil, yes. A woven geotextile fabric between the subgrade and the stone stops the two from mixing, which is what causes ruts, pumping and the gravel slowly 'disappearing' into the ground. It's inexpensive relative to the stone and dramatically extends how long the driveway lasts before it needs a major top-up.