Stairs project summary
- Run
- 3.7 ft · 4 treads @ 11"
- Width
- 36"
- Material
- Pressure-treated
- Stringers
- 3 × 2×12
- Handrail
- Included
- Difficulty
- Intermediate
- Build time
- 1–1.5 days
- Estimated materials
- $452–$611
Risers, run, stringers and materials for code-aware deck or porch stairs.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
⚠ Where the stairs rise more than 30" above grade, a guard is generally required alongside the handrail. Confirm guard height and baluster spacing with local code.
| Lumber & Decking | $248–$336 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $77–$105 |
| Concrete & Footings | $48–$64 |
| Connectors & Brackets | $45–$60 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $34–$46 |
| Total | $452–$611 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
About this calculator
Enter the total rise — the vertical height from the lower surface up to your deck or porch — and you get the whole flight laid out: the number of risers and the exact riser height, the tread depth and run, the stringer length and how many you need, plus tread boards, fasteners, an optional handrail and landing pad, with a cost range and build time.
It checks the riser height and tread depth against common code limits as you go, so you land on a comfortable, compliant step. Open advanced options to set your target riser, tread depth, stringer spacing, closed risers, a handrail and a base landing pad.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Measure straight down from the finished deck or porch surface to the ground where the stairs will land. This single number drives the whole layout, so take it where the stairs will actually sit, on firm ground.
Divide the rise by about 7.5 inches and round to a whole number of risers; that sets the exact riser height. The treads are one fewer, and the run is the treads times your tread depth. The calculator above does this and flags anything outside code.
Give the stairs a firm base — a small concrete pad or a compacted gravel footing — so they can't settle or kick out. Get it level before the stringers go down.
Set stair gauges on a framing square to your rise and run, step off the cuts down a 2×12, and cut the first stringer with a circular saw, finishing the inside corners with a jigsaw. Test-fit it before cutting the rest.
Use the first stringer as a template so every one matches exactly. Even small differences show up as wobbly, uneven steps.
Attach the tops to the deck rim or ledger with stringer connectors, space the stringers evenly across the width, and anchor the bottoms to the landing. Check that they're plumb and square.
Screw down the tread boards with a consistent overhang and a small gap for drainage, adding closed risers first if you're using them. Keep the front edges aligned.
Mount a graspable handrail 34–38 inches above the tread nosings (both sides on wide stairs), add a guard if you're over 30 inches up, then seal the wood including the cut ends.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. We may also earn from other retailer links here. This doesn’t change your price and helps keep these planners free.
Keep planning
Decks & Structures
Answers
Start with the total rise (ground to deck surface) and divide by a comfortable riser height — around 7.5 inches — then round to a whole number of risers, which sets the exact riser height. The number of treads is one less than the risers. Multiply the treads by your tread depth to get the run, and the stringer length is the diagonal: the square root of run squared plus rise squared. This calculator does all of that and gives you the stringer length and count.
The most-cited residential limits are a maximum riser height around 7.75 inches, a minimum tread depth around 10 inches, and no more than 3/8 inch of variation between any two risers or treads. A graspable handrail is required once you have four or more risers, and a guard is required where you're more than 30 inches above grade. Always confirm the exact numbers with your local building department.
Spacing depends on what the treads are made of. Two-by pressure-treated or cedar treads carry 16 inches on center comfortably, so a 36-inch stair takes three stringers — one under each edge and one in the middle. Most composite and PVC treads are rated to only 12 inches on center on stairs, even where the same board spans 16 inches flat on a deck, so a 36-inch composite stair needs four. Run them further apart than the tread is rated for and the middle of each step flexes underfoot, the screws work loose, and the nosings crack or sag. Stringer count here follows the width and spacing you set.
Thirty-six inches is the common minimum and works for most deck and porch stairs. Going to 42–48 inches feels more generous and lets two people pass, but it needs an extra stringer and more tread material. Match the stair width to the deck opening and how the space will be used.