Resilient channel, clips, MLV and drywall layers for a wall or ceiling, with an STC estimate and cost.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
⚠ This is a planning estimate, not a lab-tested STC rating — actual performance depends on workmanship, flanking paths and the assemblies on either side of the wall or ceiling.
| Finishing & Sealant | $173–$235 |
| Drywall | $136–$184 |
| Insulation | $119–$161 |
| Connectors & Brackets | $82–$110 |
| Doors & Windows | $51–$69 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $21–$29 |
| Total | $582–$788 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
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About this calculator
Enter the size of the wall or ceiling you're soundproofing and this calculator builds the full decoupled assembly — resilient channel or sound isolation clips, mass-loaded vinyl, cavity insulation, and one or two layers of Type X drywall with acoustic damping compound sandwiched between them — plus the screws, sealant, and door and outlet treatments a real installation needs, an estimated STC rating, and a cost range.
Pick a decoupling method, toggle the mass and damping add-ons, and account for the doors and outlet boxes that undo a good assembly if they're left untreated. This is a planning estimate built from published assembly gains, not a lab-tested rating, so use it to compare decoupling methods before committing — and note it covers airborne sound only, not the impact noise a floor covering above a ceiling assembly has to handle separately.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Decide what STC range the room needs and choose resilient channel or sound isolation clips accordingly — clips cost more but are far more forgiving to install correctly.
With the framing still exposed, pack mineral wool acoustic batts into every stud or joist bay without compressing them, closing gaps around wiring and boxes as you go.
Install resilient channel horizontally at the layout spacing, or screw clips to the studs/joists and snap in the hat channel — keep every fastener clear of the framing behind the channel.
Drape mass-loaded vinyl over the channel before the drywall goes up, taping the seams and trimming flush at the edges rather than overlapping heavily.
Screw the first layer of 5/8" Type X to the channel only — never let a screw bite into the framing behind it, or you've bridged the decoupling you just built.
Run beads of acoustic damping compound across the first layer in a zigzag pattern, then hang the second layer while the compound is still wet so it bonds both sheets together.
Run acoustical sealant along the top and bottom plates, around the room's perimeter, and behind every outlet and switch box before you finish the joints.
Fit a solid-core door with a full sweep, gasket and astragal kit, and press putty pads over the outlet and switch boxes. These close the paths that otherwise bypass the whole wall.
Equip the job
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Keep planning
Interior & Finishing
Answers
STC 35–40 is enough to make normal speech unintelligible next door, which covers most home offices and shared walls. STC 45–50 handles a home theater, music room or nursery next to a living space. Above STC 55 gets into professional studio territory and usually needs a fully decoupled double-wall, not just an upgraded single wall. This calculator's estimate is a planning range for comparing methods, not a certified rating.
Resilient channel is cheaper and works well when installed correctly, but it's easy to short-circuit: a single screw driven through the channel into the stud behind it kills most of the benefit. Sound isolation clips holding a separate hat channel physically can't touch the framing, so they're more forgiving to install and typically outperform resilient channel by several STC points. Clips cost more in parts but less in installation risk.
MLV adds real mass in a thin, flexible sheet, which helps most in retrofits where you can't add a full second stud wall or when floor-to-ceiling height is tight. It's a smaller gain than decoupling the framing, so treat it as a supplement to resilient channel or clips, not a replacement for them. Skip it if you're already doing a double-layer drywall assembly on a budget — the marginal gain per dollar is lower.
A second layer with damping compound between the two sheets is one of the best-value upgrades in this assembly — it adds mass and converts vibration to heat at the same time, which a single thicker sheet can't do. If budget is tight, prioritize decoupling first, then a second layer; MLV and extra insulation matter less than either of those two.
They're usually the weak point. A standard hollow-core door with no seal can leak more sound than an entire treated wall blocks, so budget for a solid-core door and a full sweep-and-gasket kit. Electrical boxes are a direct hole through the drywall — putty pads on the box, or moving the box to the opposite side of an adjacent stud bay, close that path.
If the cavity is otherwise empty, mineral wool acoustic batts serve double duty — they damp resonance and add some thermal value, though they're not sold or rated by R-value the way fiberglass batts are. If the wall already has thermal insulation installed, you generally don't need to remove it to add resilient channel or clips on top; this calculator's insulation line assumes an open cavity.