Window units, flashing, foam and trim for a whole-house window replacement.
Estimates are planning aids, not a professional quote. Double-check quantities and product coverage — and any local code or permit requirements — before you buy.
| Doors & Windows | $1,530–$2,070 |
| Fasteners & Hardware | $43–$58 |
| Finishing & Sealant | $33–$45 |
| Membrane & Fabric | $24–$32 |
| Total | $1,629–$2,205 |
Excludes tools, delivery, tax and permit fees. Labor not included — this is a DIY materials estimate.
These are affiliate links: we may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It never changes what the calculator recommends — the shopping list comes from your dimensions, not from what pays.
About this calculator
Enter how many windows you're replacing, a size class, frame material and window type, and the Window Replacement Calculator prices out the units themselves plus everything that goes around them — flashing tape, a sill pan if you're going full-frame, low-expansion foam, shims, installation screws and exterior sealant — with a materials cost range and a realistic time estimate for the whole job. The window unit dominates the total, so frame material and glass package move the number far more than any of the sundries do.
Switch between an insert (pocket) replacement, which reuses the existing frame and flashing, and a full-frame rip-out, which strips the opening back to the rough framing and needs a complete re-flash and new trim, and the materials list rebuilds around that choice. Open the advanced options for the glass package, whether you're adding exterior brickmold, and whether new interior casing goes back on. Measure before you order — these size classes are pricing groups, not your actual glass.
Step by step
A step-by-step walkthrough to go with your plan above. Follow the product instructions and any local code or permit requirements as you work.
Measure each rough opening's width and height at three points and order to the smallest reading. Confirm insert vs. full-frame per opening — a frame that's out of square or has soft wood at the sill needs full-frame.
Pull the interior stops and any sash locks, then cut or pry the old sash free. For a full-frame job, keep going until the opening is down to the rough framing.
Check the sill and jambs for rot or soft spots and repair before continuing — sealing a new window over a bad sill just hides the problem. Clean out old caulk, nails and debris.
Set a sloped sill pan first, then run flashing tape up the jambs and across the head in a shingle-lap pattern so each layer sheds water onto the one below it.
Dry-fit the unit, then shim it plumb, level and square at the corners and mid-span before driving a single fastener — a racked frame binds the sash for years.
Screw or nail through the manufacturer's fastening flange or jamb per its instructions, then fill the perimeter shim gap with low-expansion foam — never standard high-expansion foam, which can bow the frame inward.
Run exterior sealant around the perimeter where it meets siding or brickmold, add new exterior trim on a full-frame job, and replace interior casing if you chose to.
Open, close and lock the sash to confirm smooth operation with no binding, then clean the glass and remove any manufacturer film or stickers.
Equip the job
Hand-picked categories that match the shopping list above. Links open a current selection so you can compare brands and prices.
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Keep planning
Interior & Finishing
Answers
Insert (or pocket) replacement drops a new window into the existing exterior frame, leaving the surrounding brickmold, siding and flashing undisturbed — it's faster, cheaper and the right call when the old frame is square and sound. Full-frame replacement removes everything down to the rough opening, which is necessary when the frame is rotted, out of square, or you're changing the window's size, but it also means a full re-flash and new interior and exterior trim. This calculator adds sill pan flashing and more flashing tape automatically once you switch to full-frame.
The window unit itself is the dominant cost — a standard vinyl double-hung runs roughly $250–450, fiberglass $500–800, and wood-clad $800–1,400, before labor. Add flashing, foam, shims and sealant, plus trim if you're going full-frame, and materials for a mid-size job land somewhere in the low thousands for half a dozen windows. This calculator totals your exact count, size and frame choice, but doesn't include installation labor, which typically runs $150–400 per window if you hire it out.
Many jurisdictions allow a like-for-like replacement (same rough opening size, insert method) without a permit, but changing the opening size, cutting a new opening, or replacing a bedroom egress window almost always triggers one — and some areas require a permit for any exterior window work. Check with your local building department before you order, especially for full-frame jobs.
Small, standard and large here are stock pricing groups (roughly 2×3, 3×4 and 4×5 ft) meant to get you in the right ballpark before you measure. Actual replacement windows are custom-cut to your rough opening, so before ordering, measure width and height at three points each — top, middle, bottom and left, middle, right — and order to the smallest number in each direction, since openings are rarely perfectly square.
An insert replacement runs about 1–1.75 hours per window with two people once you're set up — remove the old sash, clean the frame, set and shim the new unit, foam and seal. Full-frame replacement takes 3–5 hours per window because it adds demo to the rough opening, sill pan flashing, a full weather-resistive wrap, and new trim on both sides. Add time for second-story access and staging a job with more than a dozen openings.
Vinyl is the budget default — good insulation, low maintenance, and it doesn't need painting, though color options are limited. Fiberglass costs more but is dimensionally stable across temperature swings, holds paint well, and handles larger sizes without sagging. Wood-clad gives a real wood interior with a low-maintenance aluminum or vinyl exterior shell, at the highest price — it's the choice when the interior finish needs to match existing wood trim or millwork.